George Eliot borrowed Wirksworth for the bleak ‘Snowfield’ of Adam Bede, modelling her preacher heroine on an aunt who lived here. The town grew rich on lead, and its steep alleys and tall stone houses climb the hillside around St Mary’s church. Once faded, it has found new life as an arts town with an open-studios weekend each autumn. Cromford station is about 4km to the north-east.