T.S. Eliot’s family left East Coker for America in the 17th century, and he came back to it in verse: the village is the second of his Four Quartets. His ashes were interred in St Michael’s church in 1965. The golden ham-stone cottages sit in quiet country near Yeovil, with the mainline junction about 3km off. Montacute lies a few miles north-west.