The Highland Drove is a well-regarded dining pub in Great Salkeld, an Eden-valley village east of Penrith. Downstairs is a friendly bar; upstairs there’s a smarter restaurant, and the cooking has kept it on local best-of lists for years. A good sit-down after exploring the quiet lanes and red-sandstone churches of the Eden. Lazonby & Kirkoswald station is about 4km north.