The Guildford Arms is an ornate Victorian bar down West Register Street, just off the east end of Princes Street. It’s been run by the same family since 1896, and the interior — high moulded ceiling, arched windows and a raised gallery — is listed as one of national importance. Good for cask ale, and there’s a restaurant on the gallery above the bar. It sits almost next door to The Cafe Royal, so you can easily do both. Waverley is minutes away.