Greyfriars Kirk, finished in the early 17th century, is best known for its churchyard — the setting for the tale of Greyfriars Bobby, the little dog said to have kept watch over his master’s grave. It was also here, in 1638, that the National Covenant was signed, a defining moment in Scotland’s religious history. The kirk is free to visit, and the atmospheric graveyard, hemmed in by tenements, is worth a slow wander. A short walk south of the Royal Mile.