One of Islay’s two ferry ports, Port Ellen takes the CalMac boat from Kennacraig on the mainland. It’s the way in for the island’s famous south-coast distilleries - Laphroaig, Lagavulin and Ardbeg all lie a short way east along the road, close enough to walk between. A working port rather than a pretty one, but the natural launchpad for a peaty pilgrimage.