The Oa is a wild peninsula of sea cliffs and moor on the south of Islay, run as an RSPB reserve — good for choughs, golden eagles and grazing Highland cattle. A trail leads out to the American Monument, a stone tower commemorating lives lost in shipwrecks off this coast in the First World War. It’s off the A846 south-west of Port Ellen; come prepared for wind, as there’s no shelter out there.