A mile below the honeypot of Malham, Kirkby Malham is the quieter, older parish village of the dale, gathered around the tall fifteenth-century church of St Michael. Oliver Cromwell is said to have witnessed a marriage in the register here, though the story is much argued over. It’s an easy, pretty walk up the beckside from Airton, and most Malham-bound crowds sail straight past — which is rather the point.

© Jeff Gogarty / Geograph · CC BY-SA 2.0