One of the last unspoiled drovers’ inns in England sits high on the Black Mountains at Craswall. The Bull’s Head kept its flagstone floors, old settles and stone fireplaces through 125 years with a single farming family, who left in 1998; a careful 2021 refit added dining and garden cabins without gutting the character. Wye Valley’s Butty Bach is the house ale. Come by car, and don’t count on a phone signal.