Look up when you step inside St Mary’s church in Cilcain. The south nave has a carved timber roof of hammerbeams, short beams jutting out from the tops of the walls, decorated with carved angels, shields and grotesque faces. The old story is that the roof came from Basingwerk Abbey after the abbey was closed down, but there’s no evidence for it. The church is Grade I listed. The village lies below Moel Famau, at 555 metres the highest hill in the Clwydian Range, and a footpath starts here for the Jubilee Tower of 1810 on its summit.
