T&R Theakston has brewed in Masham since 1827 and is the home of Old Peculier, its dark, strong ale named for the town’s ancient church “peculier”. It’s one of England’s oldest family breweries; the visitor centre runs tours, and you can sometimes watch the cooper making and mending wooden casks by hand — a trade that has all but died out elsewhere. Tours are ticketed, so book. Black Sheep, started by a Theakston who set out on his own, is just across town. Thirsk is the nearest station, about 19km east.