At the top of Whitby’s 199 steps, St Mary’s sits weathered on the east cliff beside the abbey ruins. Inside it’s a wonderful muddle of 18th-century box pews (one marked “For Strangers Only”) gathered round a three-decker pulpit of 1778. The churchyard, with its blackened headstones looking out to sea, gave Bram Stoker a setting for Dracula. Free to enter, and just a few minutes above the station at the foot of the cliff.
