J. B. Priestley called Hubberholme “the smallest, pleasantest place in the world”, and his ashes lie in the churchyard here. It’s barely more than a church and an inn on the young Wharfe: St Michael’s has rare oak pews carved by Robert ‘Mouseman’ Thompson, and the George Inn opposite still lights a candle on the bar to show it’s open. Buckden is a mile up the dale.