Dervaig is a pretty planned village near Mull’s north-west coast, laid out in the late eighteenth century with its houses set in neat pairs along a single street. It has a distinctive pencil-spired church and the welcoming Bellachroy, reckoned to be Mull’s oldest inn. It sits on the twisting B8073 between Tobermory and Calgary — a gorgeous but slow drive with plenty of passing places.