The former county town of Westmorland, Appleby-in-Westmorland stands on a loop of the River Eden, with a broad main street running downhill between the castle at the top and St Lawrence’s church at the bottom. It’s best known for the Appleby Horse Fair each June, one of the biggest gatherings of Gypsy and Traveller communities in Europe. Appleby station, on the scenic Settle–Carlisle line, is a few minutes’ walk north of the centre.

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