Pevsner called Kilpeck one of the most perfect Norman churches in England, and the carving is why. Built around 1140, its red-sandstone south doorway writhes with beasts and figures cut by the Herefordshire School of sculptors, and the corbel table running round the eaves keeps nearly ninety little carved heads and creatures, the famous sheela-na-gig among them. It’s all original stone in its original places. The church stands beside the earthworks of a vanished castle in Kilpeck and is open to visitors, free.