Kilmun sits on the Holy Loch in Cowal, best known for St Munn’s Church and the mausoleum of the Dukes of Argyll beside it. The present church dates from 1841, with a partly ruined medieval tower still standing alongside. Up the hill, the Kilmun Arboretum was planted from the 1930s to test exotic trees against the wet west-coast climate, and has woodland walks of varying difficulty. It’s on the A880; Gourock station and the Clyde ferries are about 8km to the south-east.