Craighouse is Jura’s only village, a row of houses along Small Isles Bay beside the island’s single distillery, Jura. Getting here takes some doing: cross first to Islay, then take the small car ferry from Port Askaig over to Feolin, and drive the single-track A846 down the coast. There’s a hotel, a shop and the distillery, and beyond the village the vast empty deer forest and the Paps that give Jura its shape.