From the outside St Mary’s looks like a plain, low farm building above Grandtully, which is exactly the surprise: the wooden ceiling inside is painted from end to end, dated to around 1636 and crowded with biblical scenes, heraldry, fruit and angels. It’s one of the finest painted ceilings in Scotland, cared for by Historic Environment Scotland and free to visit. Pitlochry station is about 9km north-east.