A tall Italianate campanile above the Wye is the first sign that Hoarwithy’s church is not the usual thing. John Pollard Seddon rebuilt it from the 1870s for the local vicar, wrapping a plain earlier chapel in a Tuscan-Romanesque shell of arcaded cloister, marble columns and a golden Byzantine mosaic of Christ over the altar. Work rumbled on into the early 1900s. It’s open and free, a short climb up from the village. Hereford station lies roughly 11km to the north.