Scalloway was Shetland’s capital until 1708, and its colourful houses still cluster below the ruin of Scalloway Castle, built around 1600 for Earl Patrick Stewart of Orkney. During the war the village was the base for the ‘Shetland Bus’, the boats that ran agents and arms across to occupied Norway — a museum in the village tells that story well. It’s six miles by road west from Lerwick.