It’s a 20-minute walk from the car park by St Paul’s church in Kinlochleven, through the woods, to the Grey Mare’s Tail waterfall; mind the roots and steps, which get slippery in the wet. The village grew up in the early 1900s around an aluminium smelter powered by a hydro scheme from the Blackwater Reservoir in the hills, whose dam thousands of navvies built largely by hand. Kinlochleven became known as the Electric Village, and the smelter closed in 2000. Above the village are the Mamores, a ridge of ten Munros (Scottish mountains over 3,000 feet), the highest being Binnein Mor. Walkers on the West Highland Way stop here before the last stage to Fort William.