Ellenabeich is a row of white slate-workers’ cottages on the island of Seil, tucked below the cliffs of a worked-out quarry. It’s the jumping-off point for the little ferry across to Easdale, and a base for boat trips out to the Corryvreckan whirlpool and the seabird islands. You reach Seil itself over the Clachan Bridge south of Oban, no ferry needed. Cracking wildlife-watching country.