In 1896 the Cardiff businessman Solomon Andrews bought Plas Glyn-y-Weddw, a Victorian Gothic mansion built in 1857 for the widow of Sir Love Jones Parry, and opened it as Wales’s first art gallery. He extended his horse-drawn tramway from Pwllheli to bring holidaymakers out. Saved from ruin by new owners in 1979, the house is now run by a trust, with exhibitions of Welsh art, a café and woodland paths. Down on the shore, the National Trust’s Llanbedrog Beach is lined with brightly painted huts. A path climbs Mynydd Tir-y-Cwmwd, the headland above, to the Tin Man, a metal figure put up in 2002, the latest in a line that began with a ship’s figurehead Andrews stood there.