For two centuries the Tibbie Shiels Inn welcomed travellers on the narrow neck of land between St Mary’s Loch and the Loch of the Lowes, named after Tibbie Shiel, who ran it and lived to 95. The poet James Hogg and other Border writers drank here, and a statue of him stands opposite the turning. The inn has since closed and is now in private hands, so there’s no pub to call at — but the lochside setting is still a fine place to pause on the Yarrow road.