Ennerdale Bridge sits at the mouth of Ennerdale, the wildest and least-visited of the big Lakeland valleys, where a long-running scheme has let the forest and river return to a more natural state. It’s the first overnight stop on Wainwright’s Coast to Coast walk out of St Bees, and the Shepherd’s Arms is well set up for walkers. Ennerdale Water lies a mile or so up the valley.