Scourie is a crofting and fishing village on a sheltered bay in west Sutherland, long popular with anglers for the trout lochs scattered across the hills behind it. Just up the coast is Handa Island, a Scottish Wildlife Trust seabird reserve of national importance — you reach it by a small ferry from Tarbet in the summer months, when its cliffs are thick with guillemots, razorbills and puffins.