Fern

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Fern occupies a light-filled barn conversion on a farm outside Bodmin, where chef Paul Welburn builds a small-plates menu around hyper-seasonal Cornish produce, the Bodmin steam railway rattling past the windows as you eat. The cooking is modern and precise. Pair a visit with the standing stones of the Nine Maidens nearby, or the Tudor house and gardens at Godolphin to the south-west.

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